The Worth of Water

Posted in Uncategorized on January 30, 2017 by Ben-G

“We the People” is the opening phrase of our Constitution, and nothing exemplifies it more than the lands we all hold in common – our Public Lands. If American citizens have a birthright it is in our National Parkes, National Forests, National Wildlife Refuges, and BLM lands. “Freedom” and “Liberty” are words are much overused in our political debates, and their basic meanings have been obscured by the smoke and fire of argument. But stand at a Public Lands trailhead, settle your backpack on your shoulders, or cradle your rifle/shotgun, or hoist your waders and fly rod and the original meaning of these words will snap sharply into focus.  As many have pointed out, we are a nation that has tested itself against the wilderness, and that wilderness is just beneath the surface of our collective psyche.  Even for people who don’t want to experience it directly, there is some level of visceral satisfaction that the land that challenged out forefathers is still there and still accessible to anyone who wants to make the effort.  These lands belong to all of us.  The dot-com engineer in Silicon Valley and the convenience store owner in Florida are as much of an owner as the rancher in Wyoming.  Our democracy, imperfect as it is, guarantees that.

But that could all change.  Many of the legislatures in western states are trying to push a new version of an old (for them) dream.  They want to take control of our Public Lands and turn them over to the States.  Generally speaking the Public Lands are the last vestige of the old Public Domain as it existed in the latter half of the 19th century.   The various Federal agencies that today manage these lands were created by Congress in the early 20th century as a bulwark against the rampant over-grazing, excessive logging, and damaging mining that was being carried out by the ancestors of those who are pushing this land-grab today.  These guys bristled at regulations that prevented them from using the lands for personal and corporate profit.  Periodically throughout the last century they would slither out from under their rocks and make another go at getting their fangs in the Public Lands, but there was never the right political climate for them to be successful. They were generally considered kooks and laughed out of court, if indeed they ever got that far.  But up until now we had a functioning government.  Now, with the erratic and unhinged Trump in charge, they’re venturing out from under those rocks again.  And this time they might succeed.

No western state has ever owned any of the land within its boundaries.  The idea that we would be giving land “back” to the states is a lie.  All the land in the west was first obtained by the Federal Government in a variety of ways, (some of them unsavory) and became collectively known as The Public Domain. As population increased, Territories were carved out of the Public Domain, and when population reached a certain level, the Territories could apply for Statehood.  As a requirement, the new States had to relinquish all land claims to the Public Domain within their boundaries.  This they readily did, as no State wanted to pay Federal taxes on a bunch of land they thought of as worthless.  In exchange, the Federal Government gifted lands back to the states (two square miles out of every thirty-six) with the caveat that the proceeds of management of those lands be put in a trust to benefit schools and education.  So, embedded in the constitution of all western states is a requirement that State Lands be managed for a profit.

The “land-grab” legislatures know that they cannot come close to incurring the costs of managing these lands.  Fire-fighting alone would bankrupt them.  So, forced by law to make a profit for the schools, they are faced with two choices: raise taxes or sell the lands. Guess which one they’ll choose?  For example, Utah has already sold more than half of the lands it was originally allotted.  Most other States have similar records.

And so, the really sinister motive behind all this stuff begins to come clear – get Public Lands into private hands.

Most of these Public Lands conflicts are portrayed as the poor embattled rancher being harassed by the oppressive Feds (forgetting for the moment that ranchers only survive because of subsidies and other Federal largesse) or that environmental regulations  are destroying the timber industry.  Not really.  The major players in today’s resource wars are the mining and energy industries, and it is they who are bankrolling these “sagebrush rebellions.”  It is these larger corporations that stand to benefit the most from owning the land and avoiding all those pesky government regulations that keep our air and water clean.

So, with that as the background lets look to the future.  What would happen if these efforts succeed?

Most of the opposition to these “land transfers” come from recreationists, who believe that they will be shut out of, or have to pay a fee for, places they normally hunt, fish, hike, bike, photograph, climb, ski, berrypick, or enjoy solitude.  And they’re right.  They will. This portion of the issue is most understandable, most personal, and most visible.  The entire relationship between the citizenry and their landscape, so important to westerners, will be forever altered.  If this radical land-grab is stopped, it will be by recreationists.

But there is another, more far-reaching aspect of this issue that has the potential to negatively affect a lot more people – water.

The most valuable “product” that comes off Public Lands is water.  The “water towers” that Greg speaks elsewhere on this website are real.  They are the only reason that life as we know it in the American west can exist at all.  And, they are overwhelmingly located on Public Lands, particularly National Forests.

The salient fact about the American west is that it hovers just above desert status, often being referred to as a “semi-desert with a desert’s heart.”  Precipitation in the valleys of the interior west (the only arable land)  most often fall between 10″ and 20″ annually.  That is, between what is considered a true desert and what is necessary for agriculture without irrigation. In 1893, John Wesley Powell, Civil War veteran, explorer of  the Grand Canyon, and head of the US Geological Survey told the International Irrigation Congress that they “were piling up a heritage of conflict” because the west did not have the capability to be what they wanted it to be – a haven for Jefferson’s “yeoman farmer” and an extension of  eastern agriculture.  There simply was not enough water.  With more demands on a limited supply, that is more true today than it was in Powell’s time.

Climate change will exaserbate this already tenuous situation.  “Global warming” means a hotter and drier west – water will be more limited than it is now and will be distributed differently.   Warmer temperatures will move uphill , shrinking the area covered by winter snows. Evaporation will increase, meaning more reservoir loss at lower elevation.  For decades the Federal Government has engaged in a giant shell game, using an elaborate system of dams and canals to move water around the west, mostly to benefit agriculture and cities.  As the recent droughts in California, easily the most water-engineered state, have shown, this approach has it’s limits. Nobody’s making more water.  What we have is all we get.  And in the west, what we get, we get from Public Lands.

Now, inject into this scenario private ownership of our watersheds. In areas as close to the margins as the American west, whoever controls water dictates what goes on in the entire region.  The way the current system works, water itself is essentially free.  In the spring it flows down from the National Forests, and when it gets to the valleys it can be put to a variety of uses by a variety of people as long as they adhere to a system of water rights prescribed by the individual states. There is no cost to any user.  But turn the water over to corporations and it becomes a different ballgame. Water would become a commodity, and have a price put on it.  Then like access to lands for hunting and fishing, citizens would be paying for something they now get for free, and the west would have lost control of it’s own destiny.

So, you say, our system of water rights that is codified in law would save us from that.  Well, consider who you’re dealing with.  These people are sleaze-balls.  They have no concept of the public good.  Everything has a price.  Everything exists only to make a buck.  Writing laws to favor their own interests is nothing to them.  Reference the fact that the whole transfer of lands was started when Congress rewrote it’s own rules, in effect for decades, to say that Public Lands had no value, thereby making them easier to dispose of. “Corporations are people, my friend” said Mitt Romney, and, according to law he was right.   So in the New West,  everybody from the family rancher to the fish in the river will be competing with Rocky Mountain Water to see who gets to drink.  Who’s going to win that?

And finally, state legislatures are far more susceptible to, shall we say, “influence” than even Congress,  so rewriting a few laws won’t cause much consternation in Statehouses.  Remember these are the guys who sold the lands in the first place.

When working for the Forest Service over the last forty years, hydrologists have always had trouble determining the value of water.  We’d say, “Well, it’s the most important thing we deal with, but we can’t really put a value on it”  But now, if we privatize our watersheds, we’ll find out very quickly how much water is worth.  And then we’ll pay for it for the rest of our lives.

 

 

 

 

 

Mission (almost) Accomplished

Posted in Uncategorized on October 5, 2014 by Ben-G

Well, we’re back at Alice’s folks in West Virginia after finishing up the east coast on Long Island.  We’ve now photographed the coastline of the entire Lower 48.  Next year, Alaska by ferry to the Inside Passage and Aleutians, and then Hawaii the following year.

We spent most of August in Canada touring around Nova Scotia and New Brunswick.  We got a Parks Canada pass and that enabled us to visit many National Parks and historic sites.  The old French fort at Louisburg (French and Indian Wars) was well worth a day.  They have an excellent living history program on all facets of life in the 1500’s.  Never really attacked, the fort fell twice to siege (“Gee, I never thought they would get guns up there!”) and was finally abandoned.

The roads in Canada are  rough, to say the least. Although the cramper survived, a number of parts were bounced loose, and the refrigerator quit after we had to park on a slope one night. After a couple attempts at repair we gave up and bought a couple Styrofoam coolers to put inside the refrigerator.  Who needs a refrigerator, we’re camping- right?

Halifax is the major town in Nova Scotia and  we spent a couple days touring it.  The closest North American port to England, Halifax was strategically important until WWII and Ft. Halifax (more living history) kept the town from ever being taken.  We camped across the bay and took a ferry into the city.  Alice insisted on a tour of the first brewery in town which turned out to be a disapointgly expensive free beer.   We got homesick when we passed the Patagonia store and spent the remainder of the day touring the waterfront.  The next day when leaving, Pete got caught in the E-Z Pass lane on the bridge, and we just ran the toll booth.  The Mounties gave chase, but we easily outdistanced them with the cramper.

It was then down to Lunenberg, a little fishing village turned tourist town (Whatever happened to all those cod on the Grand Banks anyway?) where we found a neat beach and some sea caves.    On the way back to Maine, we made stops at the Fossil Cliffs on the Bay of Fundy, Alexander Graham Bell’s birthplace in Baddeck, NS, St. Johns, NB, and then crossed back into the US on Labor Day.

The tourists had departed and we could finally get near the coast, so it was time to start photographing again.  Five days at Acadia NP was well worth it for images.  When there we were visited by friends Ron and Marilynn from Missoula, who were on their way up to Nova Scotia for a week of sailing. They introduced Alice to her first Lobster Pound, and the trip was finally worth it. She cracked  and gouged her way through an unfortunate crustacean staring up at her from a cake pan.  All was well.

We worked our way down the Maine coast (Booth Bay, Wells – more Lobster Pounds), bypassed Boston, and headed out to Cape Cod.  The National Seashore provided enough almost-empty beaches for pictures, as well as a few seals hauling out on offshore sandbars at low tide.  Now for the trips biggest challenge – Long Island – Pete’s home.  We left the cramper in New London, Ct. and took the ferry over.  It was all Pete could do to keep from blubbering as he watched Orient Point rise from the horizon – but the ensuing traffic snapped him back to reality.  So much for sentiment.  We stayed with Pete’s cousin Barbara in East Hampton, and had a great visit going over family (which just about consists of Pete and Barbara at this point) history.  On the last night, we found enough empty beach for a few sunset images, and closed the circle on the Lower 48.

It was then up to New Hampshire and a reunion with Ron and Marilynn at Leon and Doreen’s, friends of theirs from Guilford.  We visited, went to a show featuring a Maine comedian, toured the White Mountains for fall color, had lunch with a friend of Alice’s from Elderhostel days, and generally relaxed. After spending a night at Ticonderoga and visiting Crown Point and Lake Placid (good color), we stayed with Laddie and Jane in Syracuse.  Laddie and Pete went to high school together and we were subjected to much Long Island humor. Fortunately, it was a weekend and the guys watched football while Jane and Alice played golf and picked pumpkins.  It was two days back to W.Va., and we’ll be here another two weeks.  Pete has a contract to do family photos for the Strickers.  Think they can afford it?

Of the four trips, this may have been the shortest, but easily the hardest.  New England and the Maritimes are meant to be accessed from the ocean, and it’s tough to get around.  The roads are generally bad. We had a lot of down time (It was tough keeping Pete in books)  and there really wasn’t that much to photograph – you try finding empty beaches and wildlife between Cape May and Cape Cod.  And there are just so many people.  We were both pretty grouchy at times.   On the flip side, we saw and did a lot of neat things, and reconnected  with a lot of good friends.  Many thanks to all of you who we saw on all of these trips – it’s been an incredible experience.

Anybody want to buy a Cramper?

Sunrise, Boulder Beach, Acadia

Sunrise, Boulder Beach, Acadia

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Sea Cave, Nova Scotia

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Grey seals, Cape Cod

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Final shot, Montauk Point, Long Island

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Sunset, Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia

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Beach Scene, Parker River NWR,  Ma.

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Dunes, Cape Cod

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Waterfall, White Mountains NH

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Fall Color, White Mountains NH

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Fall Color, Adirondacks, NY

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Fall Color, Adirondacks, NY

Oh, Canada

Posted in Uncategorized on August 20, 2014 by Ben-G

The plan for going up the coast didn’t last two days.  When we tried to make reservations on Long Island in July, all we got we got was laughs.  They not only don’t have campsites, they don’t have campgrounds. (Only in the county parks, and they were full.  Who would want to live there anyway?)  We didn’t even try Cape Cod.  So we switched gears and went into the social portion of the trip and visited our way up the east coast.  We’ve found that if we give people too much warning they often have a sick relative to visit….

Using stealth visiting the first people we surprised were Taris and Joan Charysyn.  Taris is a high school friend of Pete’s.  He was the goalie on their lacrosse team and hasn’t lost a step.   Now he makes custom luggage for sports cars, and judging from   the way the remodeled the Cramper, demand must be high.  We spent a good couple days catching up and telling lies.  See you at the reunion, buddy….

If you’re ever in the Boston area we highly recommend the Montemorra B&B.  Don is a Yellowstone photographer who moonlights as an attorney.  I think it pays better. Don and Deb are thinking of going RV’ing to do photography.  At least they were thinking of it.  Alice and I did the Boston history thing for a couple days – Old Ironsides, Fanieul Hall, a Tea Party (the original one) reenactment, even a Sox game (14-1 Toronto, yawn).  Alice liked the subway ride the best.  We did the Boston eatery tour with Don and Deb, and they even arranged a tornado for us.

After that it was up thru Maine, and I figured I’d better do some photography.  There’s a puffin rookery with photo blinds ten miles off East Machias, Maine, and I booked a day out there.  Even though puffins don’t do much but stand around it, was still really neat.  They are really tolerant of the blinds.  They often book trips a year in advance, but I got a cancelation.  It’s tough to land on the island because its open ocean, but the day was calm so I lucked out all the way around.

From there it was up to Quody Head, the easternmost point in the US – so I was the first to see the sunrise.  This is also the entry point for Campobello Island, the summer home of FDR before he was President.  This is where he got polio.  The Canadians did a good job of restoring and maintaining  it, and it’s a good tour.

We crossed into New Brunswick to Fundy NP where they have the 40′ tides.  Hopewell rocks are sea stacks that are half covered by high tide, and standing in the middle of a dry plain at low tide.  Pretty neat.

We spent a day on Prince Edward Island, but it wasn’t long enough.  There’s the Evangaline (French) side and the Ann of Green Gables (Scottish) side.  (I’ve really got to read those books – right after I finish The Hardy Boys).  We’d have gone back another day – you can cross over the bridge for free – but it’s $45 to get back to New Brunswick.  Clever.

Then it was on to Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island.  The Cape Breton Highlands NP, on the north end, is really scenic, with steep cliffs reminiscent of Big Sur.  It’s tough to get to, but well worth the effort.  Lots of rain and fog though, so photography was marginal for most of the time.  We’ve done some hiking, but the day we were going to kayak it rained pretty hard.

We’re at Louisbourg now, the old French fort at the mouth of the St. Lawrence.  We’ll visit that tomorrow and then head to Halifax.  Back in Maine for Labor Day when school starts and things thin out a little.

 

Sunset, Cape Breton Highlands NP

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Bunchberry dogwood, Fundy NP

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Waterfall, Fundy NP

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Dusk, Cape Breton Highlands NP

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Sunset, Cape Breton Highlands NP

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North Shore, PEI

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It’s been getting cold at night…

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Hopewell Rocks, Bay of Fundy

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Indian Pipes

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Sunrise, Fundy NP

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Quody Head, Me

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Arctic tern

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That’s Alice on the right….

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This isn’t rapids in a river – it’s the tide coming in to the Bay of Fundy.

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Grey seals, Machias Seal Island, Me.

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The Beginning

Posted in Uncategorized on July 9, 2014 by Ben-G

OOPS – TEXT FOLLOWS PICTURES!

 

Diamondback terrapin, National Aquarium, Baltimore

Diamondback terrapin, National Aquarium, Baltimore

Diamondback terrapin, National Aquarium, Baltimore

Diamondback terrapin, National Aquarium, Baltimore

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Delmarva squirrel (endangered), Chincoteague NWR

Delmarva squirrel (endangered), Chincoteague NWR

Western kingbird, Pierre SD

Western kingbird, Pierre SD

Blacksnake, Burgess, Va.

Blacksnake, Burgess, Va.

Black skimmers feeding, Chincoteague NWR

Black skimmers feeding, Chincoteague NWR

Black skimmer

Black skimmer

Black Skimmer feeding, Chincoteague NWR

Black Skimmer feeding, Chincoteague NWR

Black skimmer feeding, Chincoteague NWR

Black skimmer feeding, Chincoteague NWR

Piping plover, Chincoteague NWR

Piping plover, Chincoteague NWR

Muskrat, Chincoteague NWR

Muskrat, Chincoteague NWR

Glossy ibis, Chincoteague NWR

Glossy ibis, Chincoteague NWR

Hummingbird, Quick, WV

Hummingbird, Quick, WV

Assateague horses oceanside

Assateague horses oceanside

Assateague horses bayside

Assateague horses bayside

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Sunbeam egret, Chincoteague NWR

Sunbeam egret, Chincoteague NWR

Egrets, Blackwater NWR

Egrets, Blackwater NWR

Egrets, Blackwater NWR

Egrets, Blackwater NWR

Blue crab

Bald eagle, Blackwater NWR

Bald eagle, Blackwater NWR

Chincoteague sunrise

Chincoteague sunrise

Salt marsh, Blackwater NWR

Salt marsh, Blackwater NWR

Assateague sunset

Assateague sunset

Now I know why we did all the other trips in the winter: everybody else travels in the summer.

We did pretty well going across eastern Montana because we had a tailwind.  Not so farther east.  It’s discouraging to see the gas needle drop at the same rate the speedometer rises.

The next day we were tooling along in the middle of South Dakota when I was jarred awake by a loud WHAP! WHAP! WHAP!.  So I pulled over. One of our tires had delaminated and the tread was laying waste to the side of the cramper.  Both water hookups and the cover for the electronics were gone.  The molding along the bottom of the cramper and the wheel well were twisted and hanging loose.  But the tire wasn’t flat.  I changed it anyway.   We figured the closest place to get tires was Pierre, 30 miles north, so we did that.  We camped at a State Park along the Missouri up there.  The next morning at 6, the sky to the north was Wizard-of-Oz black.  I didn’t see Margret Hamilton going by on a bike, but she certainly could have.  We headed for Sioux Falls, and got there just as the wind was picking up.  We found a place to fix the cramper and they had us park inside the shop.  That was the best thing that could have happened.  For the next eight hours it rained in sheets, accompanied by almost continuous thunder and lightning.  The electricity in the place went out, everybody else went home, and we sat in the showroom watching the light show.  Best campsite ever.  They had nine inches of rain that night, and by morning the interstate was closed, and we were on an island.  We got going about noon and made it to Alice’s parents in West Virginia the next day.

Our first destination for photography was the Delmarva (Delaware, Maryland, Virginia) Peninsula, which divides Chesapeake Bay from Delaware Bay and the Atlantic.  We decided to leave the cramper in WV and do this section from motels.  I wanted to do the horses at Chincoteague and Assateague for the book, so that’s where we headed first.  The horses at Chincoteague (Va) are on a National Wildlife Refuge, but are owned and managed by the local VFD.  They are isolated from the public. No photo ops there.  These horses are rounded up once a year and certain ones are auctioned to the public as a means of population control.  On Assateague (Md) the horses are managed by the Park Service and are allowed to run free.  A mare is allowed to have one foal, and after that she is darted with a birth control drug each year.  You can run into the horses anywhere, but I never did get them down on the beach.   Both locations are popular beach spots for tourists and locals.

I’d always heard that Cape May, NJ is one of the best birding sites in the country, so we took the ferry from Delaware over there.  It was pretty much a disappointment as far as birds go. As with anything else you’ve got to be there at the right time.  It was disappointing for photography, too.  But hey, it’s New Jersey, so I didn’t expect much.  We’re bypassing the rest of it anyway – I hear the bridge traffic is terrible.

We stopped at the National Aquarium in Baltimore so I could fill my terrapin gaps for the book.  After leaving there we toured the Civil War battlefields at Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, and The Wilderness.  It is always pretty sobering to see the actual locations of all that carnage.   Good thing we’re smarter today.

Then it was on to Alice’s cousins, Robert and Fran, who live in Burgess near Chesapeake Bay.  Three days of excellent food, boat rides, museum tours (Maratime Museum in Hampton Roads where they have the Monitor, raised off of Cape Hatteras), fireworks, beach hikes and crabs.  We told them we’d give them a plug on Yelp, but this probably reaches more people, so if you’re ever in the area stop by….

When we were at Chancellorsville we got a call from our friends, Dave and Barb, from Gettysburg, telling us about the 151st reenactment of the battle over the coming weekend.   We’re nothing if not flexible, so it was off to Gettysburg.  I played lacrosse with Dave at WVU.  He is a Civil War historian, re-enactor and competitive black powder shooter, and is the one to see these things with (Dave was killed on Little Round Top in 1863, and can be considered one of the true “Ghosts of Gettysburg”).  I got to be a real combat photographer  for a couple of days and it was good to catch up with old friends.

We’re back in WV now, and will continue the trip around the 22nd of July when we head to Long Island – where there is actually a Wilderness area on the south shore.  This should be interesting…..

 

 

 

 

 

For the Birds

Posted in Uncategorized on April 28, 2012 by Ben-G

Since we last posted, which has been quite awhile, we’ve done nothing but chase birds – in the Rio Grande Valley and the Texas coast.  A lot of that has to do with the fact that both those locations are pretty hurtin’ for landscapes.  There were some on Padre Island National Seashore, but the rest of the Texas coast is crowded , developed, and not very clean.  We’re up at Galveston now, and that’s the worst yet.

We watched the movie The Big Year a couple weeks ago and then read the book.   Now Alice is accusing me of becoming a birder.  She thinks I’m ready for binos and a floppy hat.  Wait.  Was that a Yellow-breasted Chat?  I’ll be right back……  No, just another condor.

We tried to spend the month of April on the coast to coincide with the migration and that has worked out pretty well – until recently.   The big birding place is High Island, near the Louisiana border.  When the migrating songbirds fly north over the Gulf, this is the first land they come to.  Normally they stop here for a few days before moving north.  When there are storms and a north wind they’re pretty tired and more of them stop.  We’ve had a week of strong south winds and these birds are headed for Oklahoma – whether they want to or not.  The radar shows them passing right over. There were a couple of storms when we were farther south and I got some birds out of them, but that’s it. We’ve got three more days though.

We did take a couple days and go up to San Antonio to visit the Alamo that John Wayne made famous, and spend a day on the Riverwalk.  I’d always heard that was really neat, and it was.  Good people watching.  Most of it was built by the WPA during the New Deal.  Another one of those government programs.  I’m surprised they still use it.  The Rio Grande may not have had water, but we got to float the San Antonio in the tour boat.  Go big or go home.  We missed the bluebonnet bloom, so we came back down to the coast.

We rented a beach house and are looking forward to spending next week with Shannon.  From there it’s over to Louisiana for about a week, and the run through tornado alley and home.  I’m not worried.  We’ll just hide in the cramper…

Hmmmmm I think he is a birder!!!!!!!  When you are thumbing through Sibley’s instead of talking to your wife . . .

Scarlet tanager

 

Sora

 

                                                                                                                                              Black and white warbler

Indigo buntings

Kentucky  warbler

Northern parula

Least bittern

 

Clapper rail

 

White-tailed kite

Prothonatary warbler

Roseate spoonbill

 

Reddish egrets

 

Eco porn: Spoonbills mating

 

Galveston Bay sunset

Big Bend

Posted in Uncategorized on March 31, 2012 by Ben-G

Big Bend turned out to be pretty neat, and we did quite a bit while we were there.  We stayed nine nights in three different locations – two down on the river and one up in the Chisos Mountains.  Once we left Lonesome Dove behind we stayed in the center of the Park.  The Chisos Mountains ae a 25-75 million year old volcanic intrusion surrounded by desert.  The campground is in a depression at the upper elevations (requiring a descent/ascent with 15% grades for the old cramper) and is really scenic.  We did two hikes a day out ofhere and all were well worth it.   From there we went to the east side of the park, and back down to river level.  We had two days where the car themometer read 100 degrees (but it’s a dry heat), so that slowed down the hiking somewhat.  Good photography though – for the half hour before sunset and the half hour after sunrise.  The rest of the time we followed the shade around the cramper and waited for the roadrunners to come by.  One bad thing about Big Bend is that much of it is only accessable on gravel roads that are not very good.  We missed out on a couple of places just because we couldn’t get there.

From Big Bend we took a whole day to get to Falcon Dam.  Spent a couple days there chasing birds and now we’re in Weslaco in the Rio Grande Valley.  Somewhere along the way we crossed the 100th meridian and are now back in the land of humidity (Stegner was right – imagine that!)  Good birding here and we’ll probably be here a week or so.  We got in last night just in time for the hundred year thunderstorm.  McAllen, just to the west of here got hit pretty hard with hail and flooding, but nothing right here.  We were in the cramper, so weren’t worried about tornados.

Santa Elana Canyon

                                                                                                                                                                                                         The Window

                                                                                                                                                                                                         Chisos Mountains

                                                                                                                                                                                                       In The Window

                                                                                                                                                                                                   Metamorphics

                                                                                                                                                                         The Goods

                                                                                                                                                  Delivering The Goods

                                                                                                                                                                      Black Hawk

                                                                                                                                                  Balanced Rock

                                                                                                                                            Scissortail Flycatcher

Deep in the Heart of…..

Posted in Uncategorized on March 19, 2012 by Ben-G

We’re down on the Rio Grande at the western entrance to Big Bend.  The park has really been interesting, but we’ve had three days of clouds and wind (yes, the trailer is tied down), so the photography has been pretty sparse.  This is the most isolated spot we’ve been.  If you don’t go into the park it’s an eighty mile dead end.  If you remember back to the town of Lonesome Dove, you’ll get the idea.

We spent a couple of days in White Sands up at Alamorgodo, New Mexico, and that was fun.  The dunes go forever and we had some good sunrises/sunsets so it was pretty productive.  We took a day and went up to Carlsbad Caverns, which might be my new favorite National Park.  We were in the cave for over five hours and saw lots of neat stuff.  I ended up deleting images off the front of the card so I could keep shooting.  (Maybe I ought to carry extra cards).  From there we went into Texas and Gualaloupe Mountains National Park.  We did some hiking but there’s a lot left to do.  This will be a good place to come back to.  Next we stayed at Ft. Davis, at the second worst campground in three years (even they will have to get worse to be in Homesteads class).  Ft. Davis itself is a Park Service unit, and they’ve done an excellent job of restoration of the 1859 fort.  The fort was home to the 10th Cavalry (Buffalo Soldiers) which spent a lot of time unsuccessfully chasing Apaches.

We’ll be in Big Bend for nine days at three different locations.  This is a pretty big park. Tomorrow we go to the center of the park to the Chisos Mts.  We had thought of floating the river, but it would have been an inner tube trip because the water levels are so low.  They’ve had an 18 month drought here, and right now this is a pretty sorry excuse for a river.  Good thing global warming is a myth.

Here’s some shots from along the way.

Middle Earth

West Texas Sunset

Montezuma Quail

Windy Portal

Posted in Uncategorized on March 9, 2012 by Ben-G

We are being held hostage by the wind, with gusts up to 50 mph today and the Interstate is closed.  Last night we came home from doing sunset I told Alice, “Well, at least the cramper didn’t blow away!” Just as we drove into our site here comes the camper guy to explain when he looked out the window of the office he saw the camper sitting sideways. The only thing that held it back from going to New Mexico was the water hose  attached to the faucet.  He had to pull it back with his golf cart.  Guess we were the talk of the campground.  It’s supposed to quiet down tonight, so hopefully we will head for Alamagordo, NM tomorrow.  Unfortunately, this CG isn’t paved, and there’s a lot of dust.  Here’s a shot Alice took from the cramper.

 

And here’s one of the Rec Center – we sit in here with Hawkeye and Trapper John.  (Note the hot tub)

 

I had never been to this part of Arizona before, and it’s really neat.  Portal is at the mouth of Cave Ck. on the east side of the Chiricahuas.  There’s lots of species of both birds and mammals and the scenery is spectacular as well.  Well worth a couple of days.  There are coatimundis here, but I haven’t seen one.

Arizona Woodpecker

Bridled Titmouse

Bewicks Wren

Lincoln Sparrow

Magnificent Hummingbird

Sunset, Chiricahua National Monument

Chiricahua NM

Chiricahua NM

Sunrise, Chiricahua Mts., Portal

Cave Ck. Canyon, Portal

OK, Gunfight at the Corral

Posted in Uncategorized on March 1, 2012 by Ben-G

All of a sudden, there they were.  Wyatt….Virgil….Morg….Doc, all coming up Allen Street.  These were tough men;  steel-backboned and hard-eyed.  Men born with the bark on.  Men to ride the river with.  One glance and you knew there would be no quarter in this final showdown with the Clantons and McClowerys. They were all business as they rounded the corner and stepped into the OK Corral and their rendezvous with death – and destiny.

Ah, the old west.  Living history.  If it didn’t happen that way, it should have.  Today we went to Cowboy Dollywood, aka Tombstone – the town too tough to die.  However a lot of the residents looked like they were on the Boot Hill work release program.  This must be where the NRA does its recruiting.  It was good for a few laughs though.  We combined it with a trip to Bisbee, an old mining town that has morphed into a new-age, crystal selling boutique.  At least we hit both ends of the tourist spectrum.

Most impressive was the San Pedro Riparian Area, 40 miles of the west the way it used to be.  Amazing what things can look like without bovines.  And it’s managed by the BLM !!!???

From here it’s more history – Cochise’s Stronghold and the Chiricahuas.  And then: I ran into and old geezer on a street corner in Tombstone who had an authentic map to the Lost Dutchman Gold Mine in the Superstition Mountains.  Nobody’s ever seen it before.  For $250 I couldn’t pass it up.  By the next post, we’ll be rich!

Coming Justice

Justice Served

Elegant Trogon

Western Screech Owl

Mexican Jay

Crowded limb – Coopers Hawk and Squirrel

Lesser Goldfinch

Gila Woodpecker

Black-throated sparrow

Arizona Highways

Posted in Uncategorized on February 13, 2012 by Ben-G

Isn’t it terrible to enjoy watching someplace from your rearview mirror? While we have enjoyed San Diego as a city before, when you are there for just photography the daily traffic grind becomes tiresome. We do not know how people do this on a daily basis.

Our first stop in Arizona was Imperial National Wildlife Refuge. There was no competition for a parking spot because we were the only car in the parking lot and the only people on the trail. The silence was almost deafening. We also made a visit to Kofa National Wildlife Refuge which features a pocket of palm trees on a canyon rim. This time there were two cars in the parking lot.
While in Yuma we made a stop to catch up with some retired Forest Service friends, Ron and Artis Prichard. They spend their summers in Dillon but we had to go to Yuma to see them. :o)

Camped a night in Organ Pipes Cactus National Monument. Loved the cactus, but was surprised at the number of border checks there are in that area since it is so isolated and sits on the Mexican border. On Sunday we decided to hit Tucson  in time for the Super Bowl because there was no establishment around the monument that would be televising the game. Pete had no vested interest in either team but it was after all the Super Bowl. Can’t spend all of your time in cultural isolation! LOL!

Remember looking at copies of Arizona Highways as a kid . . . that is the back drop of Tucson. While the town itself is okay the surrounding areas are breathtaking. The cactus, Saguaro National Park, The Sonoran Desert Museum, Sabino and Bear Creek Canyons. And there was a full moon last week. Moonrises and Sunsets!

Another surprising find is Tucson’s water treatment facility, Sweetwater. While, not so sweet to one’s nose, it has proven to be a mecca for birds and Pete even got a bobcat. Does that qualify as Urban Wildlife?

Two Side Bars: #1 Have you ever tried to locate roadrunners? Hmmm like looking for a needle in a haystack. #2 When you pull into your campsite and there are cranes and a construction crew think twice. They are building an interstate on ramp right through the middle of the campground. There are several senior campers surveying the construction site. The male species and big machines . . . boys will be boys!

Happy Trails!!!!

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